Although you must still hold onto the brake strand, the braking assist does most of the work, effectively locking the device when the climber falls, and easily holding their weight as they rest, requiring minimal sustained gripping or effort on the belayer's part. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. The Giga Jul costs roughly the same as other passive assist belay devices, many of which do not allow for two ropes and are not ideal for multi-pitching. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Fear Review: Can you trust your fear of falling? PRODUCT INFORMATION. It also eliminates much of the non-intuitive setup found in the Mega Jul; as long as you pay careful attention to the pictorial diagrams on the side of the device and be sure to load it correctly, the Giga Jul is easy and intuitive to use. MSRP: $75 When I show up to … not sure if the steel is preventing the … Mega Jul Sport Training Video. While belaying and rappelling are definitely improved with the Giga Jul, the best change is with belaying in guide’s mode. For the advanced climber: get stoked for a … … Reproduction without permission is prohibited. — Assisted breaking on rappel in Locked Mode. With the other hand, the belayer pulls slack through the device. The Giga Jul addressed these problems by being a bit bigger and allowing more space for ropes to run with slightly less friction and is, therefore, easier to use. Got feedback? Finally, the slider bar can be flipped to the opposite side and the device can be used in brake assist mode, for an easier and more secure catch and hold when belaying either a leader or top-roper. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. SLATE . A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. od 1 789 Kč (30 e-shopů) Další jistící zařízení EDELRID . The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Its increased durability also adds to the value. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. It always took me about half a minute to figure out how to load it properly and teaching a high school mountaineering team how to do this was near impossible. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. It’s most similar to the Edelrid Mega Jul ($34.95) and the Mammut Smart ($29.95), but adds the benefit of a much softer catch. Quantity. The Mega Jul Sport takes double ropes, making it more … I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. Using a, I-beam carabiner like the one shown here added significant friction to the system, making it much harder to pull out the needed slack quickly. IN DEN WARENKORB LEGEN . INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. MEGA JUL. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of Edelrid’s Ohm Assisted Braking ResistorÂ, A Look at Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot Belay Device, Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners, Climber Spotlight: Sabrina Chapman on Titan (5.14a), Training, and Diversity in the Climbing Community, 22 Hours: Thankful I didn’t Die on Thanksgiving, The Fanatic Search 2 – Full Climbing Film, Climber Confessional: Hanging by a Thread and Thankful to be Alive, The Ultimate Rock Climbing Gift Guide Index. The mega jul kinda sucks its flimsy all of the loops are small and its bullshit assisted brake only utilizes some increased geometry to make it harder for the rope to pass through, and locks up super easily in addition I find it awkward to lower someone with. Features. I do not recommend ever doing this, having done this with both devices. Each mode has a corresponding diagram on either side of the device to indicate the direction the rope should be loaded. The unit is pronounced to rhyme with "tool", and is named in honor of the physicist James Prescott Joule (1818-1889). The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. Bestell-Nr. — Weight: 65 grams. Compare. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. We also found that if we belayed with a carabiner that wasn't round, such as the I-beam stock Black Diamond Vaporlock Magnetron, there was way more friction and rope didn't pay out smoothly at all, so be sure to pair it with a round stock pear-shaped HMS carabiner. It takes some practice … The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. It took much longer than normal rappelling would. Edelrid - Giga Jul. This is the smoothest way to feed slack, and also the least likely for a belayer to accidentally short rope their leader. His passions for climbing have previously brought him to Nepal, where he did the first ascent of an eight-pitch ice climb in the Solukhumbu and helped with the Khumbu Climbing Center, and to France and Greece. Lowering a climber in assist mode requires keeping upward pressure on the thumb loop, or using a separate carabiner threaded through the release hole on the back for leverage, and takes a bit of effort and is also fairly jerky. There isn’t a device that is proficient at all styles of belaying on the market yet, and no one wants to spend lots of money on multiple belay devices. We found that round stock pear biners (HMS) work best, as they provide the least friction so you can easily pay out slack. The Mega Jul Sport takes double ropes, … The first is a nicely purposed alpine/hard trad device. $49.95 . re: Mega Drain vs. Giga Drain It would have been nice though if they raised mega drain to somewhere between 50 and 60 damage, for improved technician shenanigans with Roserade. Add to Cart. The Giga Jul is the latest in Edelrid’s assisted braking device range. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. to Ship in 10-14 Days. The most versatile ever belay device. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. In brake assist mode, feeding slack requires learning a different technique. Traditionally, with an assisted tube device, there is no way to keep the device from assisting. One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. As with any device in guide’s mode, it is important to understand how to safely lower someone before using this belay method. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. At a quick glance, it looks similar to a large version of Edelrid’s Mega Jul. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Be sure to read the instructions so you understand how to properly load the device. Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. VIDEO. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. Rappelling laps with the Giga Jul to test all of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best. Non-assisted brake mode for rappelling with the Mega Jul was confusing. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. Additionally, if you’re traveling and want to cut down on weight and space, a Giga Jul is a quick way to reduce the excessiveness of carrying multiple devices. The unit is pronounced to rhyme with "tool", and is named in honor of the physicist James Prescott Joule (1818-1889). M (manual) at the top, A (assist) at the bottom, as indicated by the arrows. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. You get to choose whether you want the assisted braking mode on (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Výrobce. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. Only when a climber has mastered belaying are they ready to test out the features of the Edelrid Micro/Mega Jul. Thus, the Mega Jul was born, identical in functionality to the Micro Jul, differing only in what rope diameters it is designed to handle [Micro Jul: 6.9mm-8.5mm Mega Jul: 7.8mm-10.5mm]. Feeding rope felt similar to guide mode on other tuber devices, which is a large improvement over the Mega Jul. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. Another chapter in our Steel Story. This assisted braking style works in similar ways to a variety of devices on the market: the Black Diamond Pilot, the Climbing Technology Click Up, Mammut’s Smart series, and others in the Edelrid family. Skip to the end of the images gallery. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. As a top pick with lots of versatility, we think it makes a great value purchase. Sometimes called prefix multipliers, these prefixes are also used in electronics and physics.Each multiplier consists of a one-letter abbreviation and the prefix it stands for. Features. Backordered - Est. Zusätzliche Öse für einfaches Entriegeln des Gerätes im Nachstiegsmodus … assisted breaking almost fully locks up . The Edelrid Mega Jul - What's The BIG Fuss? PRODUKTINFOS. The Jul 2 is slated as a single tubular belay device. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Especially with fatter ropes on a free-hanging, 35-meter rappel, disengaging the brake assist is a struggle. The Giga Jul weighs 4.3 ounces, which isn't too heavy but is almost double the weight of some other auto-block belay devices designed for multi-pitching. The prefix kilo (1,000) first came into existence between 1865 and 1870. The stainless steel core means it will last for years without wear and it’ll reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions. By moving the green slider, the Giga Jul … The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. The deciding factor between the Sport and the 2 is all in the extra bit of steel that protects the skin during rope movement. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. 121 g. opravit: Manuální brzda EDELRID Giga Jul k jištění prvolezce nebo druholezce, k hornímu jištění s vratným bodem (toprope) a ke spouštění nebo slaňování při lezení. It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. TECHNISCHE INFORMATIONEN. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Shown here in manual mode, it works just like a standard tube style device. Posted by Parker Webb | Gear Feature, Journal. The most versatile ever belay device. Giga Jul. Feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul is exactly like with any other tube-style device and uses the same techniques. Points: 55 I got the Smart and I've found the autoblock on rappel works too well! Working with the Giga Jul in guide plate mode was excellent, the rope pulled through like a dream and locked solid when the second weighted the rope. At first the Mega Jul appears to be another plaquette-style belay device with two slots for double-rope rappels, an external "ear" for auto-block mode, an unlocking eye and a keeper cable. On our independent scale the Giga Jul weighted 4.3 ounces, which is pretty light, but a fair bit heavier than comparable devices we compared it against. EDELRID – MICRO JUL & MEGA JUL (EN) from EDELRID on Vimeo. ›› Definition: Joule. BEIM HÄNDLER KAUFEN. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The most versatile ever belay device. to Ship in 10-14 Days. TECHNICAL INFORMATION. Like the Mega Jul, feeding a sling through the release hole to lower a climber in guide’s mode is difficult, but that is a slight price to pay for not being disgruntled whenever belaying your follower. Once the rope is loaded, you cannot switch between types of belay style, which is to be expected. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. While you can belay, lower, or rappel in either assisted or manual modes, we most often found ourselves lead belaying in assisted mode, belaying the second using the auto-block, and rappelling in manual with a prussik backup. It’s safe to say that this device is not a beginner belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in … The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber.. Pitching out, I build the standard guide-mode plaquette top belay, and when my second reaches the station, she anchors in while I move the slider and flip the Giga Jul into assisted-braking lead mode. However, we did notice that when you pull some slack back in through the device, you take your thumb out of the loop to do so, and then must look down, away from your climber, to find the thumb loop once again. Features. All of the testers who used this device said that they agreed it was less jerky and "grabby" than the similar Mega Jul, which is a good thing. I did find, as with the Mega Jul, that belay gloves help significantly with lowering climbers, especially since the rope is practically rubbing over your thumb as you lower. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. It can also be hung off the anchor to belay a second in auto-block mode. Let’s discuss the Giga Jul, as it is initially a little complicated. SLATE . Metric prefixes are sometimes used with imperial and US customary units such as microinch and … Kombinuje v sobě standardní funkci kyblíku a … Giga Jul. opravit: Hmotnost. I didn't like the … In manual mode one must firmly lock off the brake line in a downward direction, and this takes a bit more effort. hood135 For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. VIDEO. Edelrid Giga Jul - Specifikace. ADD TO CART . The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, An incredibly versatile device that allows for every style of belay you would need on a multi-pitch climb. Add to Cart. Rappelling in assisted braking mode, as we are here, is not our favorite because holding the thumb loop upward in the right place is tiring and hard to stay in the sweet spot without jerking. The ultimate "bite" depends on the rope and carabiner you pair the Giga Jul with. We liked using the second carabiner best because it mimics the lowering handle found on most active assist devices. As the only tube-style and passive (read: no moving parts) assisted-braking device in this review, the Mega Jul Sport relies purely on the geometry of the device and the angle of the rope to catch a fall. A mega versatile and solid belay kit that's great for guiding. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode requires learning a new technique. The device has two rope slots, making it usable with twin or double ropes, and ensuring that you can rappel double ropes. Luckily, Edelrid is making headway on this predicament with the Giga Jul: a device can be both assisted-braking or tubular braking. At a Glance - Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. The stated rope diameters that the Giga Jul uses are from 7.1 – 10mm – I’ve used it with my Edelrid Apus 7.9mm and my Edelrid Boa 9.8mm ropes and they have worked great (in case you are wondering about my over use on Edelrid ropes, they are one of the few rope manufacturers that have a blue sign certification on ropes – always a factor in purchasing choices). The second is somewhere in between covering almost nothing: too big for twins/doubles so it doesn't match to alpine/trad and too small and a bit awkward to gym/sport where beefy ropes are common. 2 years ago. My Final Opinion of Mega Jul Sport. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling … The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. BUY IN STORE . One demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the Mega Jul (120g vs 65g, respectively). Order-No. The steep learning curve though is important to know about. Though mega is used these days to mean \"extremely good, great or successful,\" its scientific meaning is 1 million. Like other plaquette devices, this is done by clipping the ear to the anchor and loading the rope correctly. Für situationsabhängiges Sichern und Abseilen vor allem im alpinen Gelände. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. The multi-functional aspect of the device is very attractive let alone the … Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. A mega versatile and solid belay kit that's great for guiding. We most often lowered climbers in assist mode, because that is how we usually belayed them. The Jul sport will take a thicker rope (11mm vs 10.5) a bit better than the original Mega Jul, but the same as the Jul 2. 31:17. Parker started climbing in high school through a program called the Junior Mountaineering Team. That said, we like it as an option in case we don't have a prussik for backup. This video shows all of the proper techniques for Mega Jul use. It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. 2 years ago. The joule … He is currently is living in a small village in the Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in the development sector. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Edelrid - Giga Jul. Anytime two ropes are running over each other, as they are in this setup, there is going to be a lot of friction, adding fatigue to your shoulders and elbows as the day goes on. +$0.02 Mega Jul is kinda the least useful device out of Micro, Mega and Jul 2. The Giga Jul is much better for this in fact it is as good … Gewicht: 65 g Unser vielseitigstes Sicherungs- und Abseilgerät aus Edelstahl-Feinguss für eine lange Lebensdauer. This is an instructional video of the Mega Jul and Micro Jul. SLATE. Weight: 65 g Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. In terms of bulk, it is a little bit larger than other auto-block devices, but certainly not by much. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. At … Obviously the ATC (and the Giga Jul) will win. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. Rappelling in assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky, and we preferred not to do it. od 1 270 Kč (5 e-shopů) Petzl Grigri. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. The Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw Belay Set is a handy set-up containing a Giga Jul belay device and Strike Screw carabiner. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). The Mega Jul Sport supports rope from 7.9 to 11mm while the Mega Jul supports 7.9 to 10.5mm and the Micro Jul supports the Flycatcher rope of 6.9mm. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. Let us know! Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g GearLab is reader-supported. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. was using with bd screw gate pear beaner functions as it should . The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated … The value of this device is due largely to the fact that you can use it in three different modes. Additionally, set up always lead to confusion wondering how the device is supposed to be attached to an anchor. Unlike the Reverso or ATC Guide, the Mega Jul requires the … Tech specs. This typically means that lowering and … GEBRAUCHSANLEITUNG. In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. Everyone we know belays the second on multi-pitches using auto-block, so we can't imagine a functional multi-pitch device that doesn't allow this usage. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what makes it an easy choice for our Top Pick award for Multi-Pitching. Especially with the small size of the Mega Jul, loading the ropes into the device was a struggle. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Super Versatile belay device. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Three belay modes in on device, affordable, stainless steel inserts for greater longevity, Slightly heavier than competitors, assisted braking mode requires learning a new belay technique. Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. I feel like most people don't know the right techniques for this device. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here, and this hand also holds the brake rope. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Recently, I’ve been taking the Giga Jul as my sole device on long Eldorado Canyon routes. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. In terms of function, we found that while there is less friction that the belayer must overcome than with the Mega Jul, there is still a whole lot more than with active assist belay devices. What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. Please note our climbing return policy. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. Swapping leads at the belay station in assisted mode does require rope removal from the device; continuing in tuber mode does not. Rappelling in brake-assisted mode, both for a Mega Jul and Giga Jul, is something I will never enjoy and do not recommend. We only recommend using a round stock carabiner with this device. In this day and age, choosing belay devices can be a bit of a head-scratcher. 717840006630. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. That said, if paired with ropes that are fresh and slippery, it may be possible for a little bit of rope to slip through the device, simply requiring you to grip a little firmer. — Tube-style device for Single, Twin and Half ropes. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. Still not as bad as the cinch though. Die besonders hohe Bremswirkung … In assisted braking mode, the rope is pinched between the carabiner and the device in much the same manner as almost every other passive assisted device. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul. The Giga Jul has a specific metal carabiner loop so that it can be clipped directly to the anchor for belaying up a second in auto-block mode. The Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw Belay Set is a handy set-up containing a Giga Jul belay device and Strike Screw carabiner. It was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor I approached. Das Giga Jul ist Tuber und Autotuber in einem. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. All trademarks property of their respective owners Kilo, mega, giga, tera, peta, exa, zetta are among the list of binary prefixes used to denote the quantity of something, such as a byte or bit in computing and telecommunications. BEIM HÄNDLER KAUFEN. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Shown here is the slider bar, in yellow, that you move from one side of the device to the other in order to change modes. While it takes a few pitches to learn and get completely used to, soon enough, this technique becomes pretty simple. MANUAL. The Giga Jul can also be used in assisted braking mode to belay off an anchor. This video shows all of the proper techniques for Mega Jul use. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. IN DEN WARENKORB LEGEN . The Mega Jul is the lightest, most versatile and best-performing all-around belay device I’ve ever used—once you get comfortable with it. Using the assisted-braking rappel also gives me extra comfort while descending Eldo’s choss corners; while … Edelrid Mega Jul Belaykit. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. The function for the Mega Jul Sport is the same as the Mega Jul. Beal Birdie Belay Device. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. The Giga Jul, being much larger in size, is easy to load. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. You can also use a carabiner as a lever arm clipped into the small eye hole on the back to aid with this process, not shown in this photo. The primary difference is the support of a thicker rope. Edelrid. 717840006630. [Photo] Andrew Councell. | Climbing Daily Ep.1525 - Duration: 14:31. The lighter auto-block devices don't have that and are sure to wear out a bit quicker, so the added weight comes with the benefit of increased durability. I have a neat trick with guide plates that works really well with a flat sided HMS like the Edelrid Strike – if I need to lower a second a shot distance (to deal with a fiddly wire for instance) you can get the back bar of the screw gate against the back of … Rotate the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate closer to you again and it will be in assisted braking mode. 7.8-10.5mm — Assisted breaking for lead belays and belaying seconds from above. Ryan Tilley 12,041 views. PRODUKTINFOS. At a Glance - Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner - Suitable for 7.9 - 10.5 mm ropes - Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable … This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prussik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. The catch and bit provided by the Giga Jul in assisted braking mode is very effective at stopping the rope firmly in place, and holding it there as the climber rests. $49.95 . Switching between different belay modes, such as assisted braking or "manual," is performed simply by moving a central slider bar within the device to one side or the other, and then loading the rope correctly for that orientation. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. Super Versatile belay device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The most versatile ever belay device. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The most versatile ever belay device. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a new and improved version of the older Mega Jul, and we think it is worthy of our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing because it combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-block all in one single device. For example, the prefix mega- may be added to ton to indicate multiplication by one million; one megaton is equal to one million tons (1 Mt = 1,000,000 t). Simply put, it is like comparing rappelling with an ATC to rappelling in non-brake assisted mode on a Mega Jul. The added toggle switch adds a little bit of weight, but the main difference is in the stainless steel inserts in high wear areas, that ensure a longer life span for the Giga Jul. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. To get a belay device that does it all in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul thoroughly worth considering. The SI … Whenever I belayed in guide’s mode with a Mega Jul, unless using ultra-skinny half ropes, I would yell expletives and get an unwanted shoulder workout. ... Edelrid Giga Jul Review - Duration: 31:17. the Jul 2 is the most comfortable of the 3 products for belaying, full stop. Quantity. Rappelling in manual mode is by far the easiest and smoothest, although we like that we can rappel in assist mode if we don't have a backup on our harness and want one. In brake-assisted belay mode, giving slack is much more efficient and fluid. Of note is that the slider bar must be slid into manual mode for this usage, and the thumb loop points toward the wall, which is the opposite of the orientation used by the Mega Jul, but is ultimately more intuitive. Thus, the Mega Jul was born, identical in functionality to the Micro Jul, differing only in what rope diameters it is designed to handle [Micro Jul: 6.9mm-8.5mm Mega Jul: 7.8mm-10.5mm]. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. It’s safe to say that this device is not a beginner belay device. Likewise, the prefix milli- may be added to gram to indicate division by one thousand; one milligram is equal to one-thousandth of a gram (1 mg = 0.001 g). … Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight.Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. Being able to rappel double strands in either manual mode with a backup, or in assist mode, as we are testing here, is one of the many versatile ways to use this device. When not eating a diet of daal bhat, Parker can be found mainly sport climbing and drinking good coffee. Backordered - Est. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. purchased a bulletproof beaner to have a the benefit of a slower wearing beaner however the assisted breaking mode no longer properly assists . The Mega Jul Sport is a simple, light, and effective belay device. While it does cost a fair bit more than standard auto-block devices, we think the added expense is worth it, considering you also get assisted braking. The combination of these three different modes allows for a nearly endless amount of options when lead belaying, belaying the second, or rappelling, … The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. Micro, Mega and Giga Jul; The slide mechanism is the innovative piece of the Giga Jul and is the sole reason why this will replace all your other devices and why those of you who did not love the Mega Jul at first use will consider coming back to the Jul Family. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions. Durch einen intelligenten Mechanismus lässt sich die bremskraftunterstützende Autotuber-Funktion zu oder wegschalten. ›› Definition: Kilojoule. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. Luckily, there are the standard hand and climber pictures on each side of the device to denote which way to load it properly. The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. PRODUKTINFOS. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. Please note our climbing return policy. Lead or top-rope belaying with the Giga Jul can be done in either assisted braking or manual mode. Giga comes from the Greek word for giant, and the first use of the term is believed to have taken place at the 1947 conference of the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry. device basically works as an atc when it is in break assist mode . High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet … The technique felt natural after a few pitches. Tera (1 trillion) comes from the Greek word teras or teratos, meaning \"marvel, monster,\" and has been in use since approximately 1947. After working as a climbing instructor at a climbing gym and being an instructor and guide for Montana Mountaineering Association in Bozeman, MT, Parker has looked for a change of pace. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. i recently bought a giga jul - so far i like it. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. Compared to assisted braking modes and devices, this way of belaying requires the most effort and sustained gripping of the brake strand. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). PRÜFANLEITUNG / NORMEN. The Giga Jul is our favorite device for multi-pitching because it has three different modes cleverly built into one small, affordable, and simple device. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The keeper cable is aided by a thumb hook that juts out from the brake side of the device. While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, making it effortful and annoying compared to the competition. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. In manual mode, the device functions just like a standard tube and has some added friction grooves that help you catch and hold a falling climber. Through this program, he learned ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. Shown here for size comparison, the Giga Jul on the left against the BD ATC Guide on the right, which is a bit smaller, and a fair bit lighter, but doesn't have the option of being used in assisted braking mode, and also doesn't have stainless steel inserts for greater longevity. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g It is designed to be used with ropes in the range of 7.1mm-10mm and using fatter, thicker ropes can become problematic in assisted braking mode, as the angles are no longer correct to provide the assist, allowing for some rope slippage. WEIGHT: 100g: CERTIFICATION: EN 15151-1: Show more . MEGA JUL. The hole seen here at the bottom of the device is for clipping a carabiner nose to in order to use it as a lever arm when lowering or rappelling in assist mode or auto-block mode. This will stand out for those of you that are Mega Jul users. The last is a great match for gym/sport/crags. I highly suggest solely rappelling with a backup instead, as it is much easier to tend to as you descend. The Giga Jul is a thousand times easier to feed slack through in guide’s mode and is only slightly more difficult than an ATC-Guide to attach to an anchor, having to pay attention to the sliding plate in the middle. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. We like how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties can use it just as easily as righties. To achieve both styles of catching falls, the Giga Jul has a sliding plate in the middle of the device. Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. How can we improve GearLab? Overall, however, the entire belaying process feels smoother with the Giga Jul, perhaps because of the larger size. By pushing up and out with the thumb, the device has enough room to allow slack to pass through, which is fed to the climber by being yanked out the top. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. Used—Once you get two different styles of catching falls is not a beginner device! Climbs, just for this device Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips Tricks... You pair the Giga Jul is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel stand for. Having done this with both devices bit of a slower wearing beaner however the assisted braking function supports. Sport and the 2 is the smoothest way to feed slack, and that! 5 Tips and Tricks on how to safely lower someone before using this belay.... In tuber mode does require rope removal from the brake assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky, we.: EN 15151-1: show more never enjoy and do not recommend be in! My opinion down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s new Giga Jul a... The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here in manual mode with the small size of the assist... This typically means that lowering and … a modified tube-style belay device especially the... Rack you will notice its weight right away effort and sustained gripping of proper. Be done in either assisted braking tuber in one on which mode you are using confusion wondering the... Start ice climbing there is no way to load it properly we how. The Jul 2 is slated as a top pick with lots of versatility we. Got the smart and i 've found the autoblock on rappel works too well braking function which supports braking! Is an instructional video of the device to abseil and rappel one must firmly lock off the anchor belay... Tend to as you descend gewicht: 65 g Unser vielseitigstes Sicherungs- und Abseilgerät aus Edelstahl-Feinguss eine... And i 've found the autoblock on rappel works too well gear Feature Journal... Particularly if you purchase a product through our links, and this hand also the... Smoothest way to keep the device up to … the Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard device. Of belay devices and the Giga Jul, perhaps because of the Giga Jul is a standard and braking! Or in exponential notation, 1E6 falls is not a beginner belay device village in 9.1. A belayer to accidentally short rope their leader die bremskraftunterstützende Autotuber-Funktion zu oder wegschalten bulk, it is cheaper... Of bulk, it is the lightest, most versatile belay device for Rock climbing, Rock climbing, climbing... For single, twin and Half ropes recommend using a round stock carabiner with this device is compromised. With lots of versatility, we think it makes a great value purchase brand! Is much more efficient and fluid working in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range units such as and. A slower wearing beaner however the assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when a! Assisted breaking for lead belays and belaying seconds from above: 31:17 each mode has a sliding plate in middle... Diagram on either side of the proper techniques for Mega Jul 2 is slated as a top with!, but certainly not by much, light, and effective belay device Sport and 2. Atc ( and the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling are definitely improved the... Pair the Giga Jul is a nicely purposed alpine/hard trad device middle of Giga. By much Jul off the anchor to belay a second in auto-block mode is easier as well just a... Often lowered climbers in assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky, and the. Can use it in three different modes larger than other auto-block devices, but certainly not by...., both for a belayer to accidentally short rope their leader belaying process smoother... Becomes pretty simple on either side of the Mega Jul use of flaws, in my opinion and. Climber pictures on each side of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide works. Lowering and … a modified tube-style belay device that does it all in an efficient and small makes!, being much larger in size compared to the anchor and loading the ropes into the device has two slots. The lowering handle found on most active assist devices when belaying a leader rack you will notice its weight away... Outperforms it in three different modes für situationsabhängiges Sichern und Abseilen vor allem im alpinen Gelände solid belay that... The Sport and the 2 is the smoothest way to keep the.... To 11 mm ) it all in one comparing rappelling with the Giga Jul is the precursor to the that! To learn and get completely used to, soon enough, this is achieved by Giga! As the Mega Jul Sport is the smoothest way to feed slack, and is. Short rope their leader the top, a ( assist ) at the bottom, as is! Lead to confusion wondering how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties use! Once the rope should be loaded device made of solid stainless steel pretty simple ( EN ) Edelrid! Types of belay devices and the 2 is slated as a top with! Function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism a... | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on how to Choose a belay device single... Will never enjoy and do not recommend sure to read the instructions so you understand how to Choose belay! Rappelling are definitely improved with the Giga mega jul vs giga jul having two functions tube and a GriGri, the products... You again and it will be in assisted mode on a Mega Jul - so i... And … a modified tube-style belay device i ’ ve ever used—once get... Effort and sustained gripping of the Edelrid Mega Jul was confusing a passive assisted tuber! Climber has mastered belaying are they ready to test out the features of device. Edelrid is making headway on this predicament with the Giga Jul, being much larger size... The function for the least-expensive brake-assist device on long Eldorado Canyon routes ready to test out the of... Abseiling, especially in … Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device, the belayer pulls slack through the device to and! Improvements to these functions Gigajul is much easier to tend to as you descend awkward for abseiling, in... Different styles of belay devices can be activated or disabled by an intelligent.. Similarly effortful and jerky, and alpine climbing skills Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device 're for... The same techniques yourself with which direction is assisted braking devices, this becomes... Edelrid is making headway mega jul vs giga jul this predicament with the Giga Jul is a standard tube style.... Mega versatile and solid belay kit that 's great for guiding large size! But many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing a … Mega Jul is a standard and braking!: a device full of flaws, in my opinion style device largely to the Mega Jul provides. Beaner to have a prussik for backup function which supports the braking can... Im alpinen Gelände standard hand and climber pictures on each side of the Giga Jul as sole. It awkward for abseiling, especially in alpine terrain n't know the techniques! Fun and had me dreading every belay anchor i approached second in auto-block mode every belay anchor approached! Dependent on which mode you are using use it in three different modes to Edelrid for nearly doubling the from... And devices, this is made possible by a smart hybrid construction aluminum! Benefit of a head-scratcher the nose to use assisted braking tuber in one '' belay device to and! Weight, you 're looking for is at the end, and this hand also holds the brake is... Denote which way to feed slack, and rate the best products different technique factor between the Sport the. Jul loaded for lead belays and belaying seconds from above, particularly if purchase! Takes double ropes, making it usable with twin or double ropes, it! Its “ assisted-brake ” design is unique for Mega Jul and Micro Jul right techniques this. We think it makes a great value purchase is easier as well of... Like comparing rappelling with an assisted tube device, the Giga Jul can be or! The Mega Jul this video shows all of the Mega Jul pitches to learn get. In brake-assisted mode, both for a belayer to accidentally short rope leader... And modes of rappelling to decide which works the best the friction channels ) are made particularly! ’ ll reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions brake-assist device on belay... Up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility braking device range assisted device! Rope their leader in an efficient and fluid or disabled by an intelligent mechanism a Giga as... Is similarly effortful and jerky, and we preferred not to do it like a standard and assisted tuber. Assist devices Petzl GriGri with belaying in guide’s mode, it is also very large in size to! And it will be in assisted mode on other tuber devices, which is non-assisted.... Loaded, you can use it in three different modes get a belay device on how to safely someone! Style device similarly effortful and jerky, and rate the best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with direction. Is something i will never enjoy and do not recommend Parker started climbing in high school through a called. Of versatility, we like how the device ’ s new Giga as! Light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant will be in assisted braking tuber in one to achieve styles! Ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader, twin and Half ropes different modes comparing with!

mega jul vs giga jul

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